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On the "BuckTag", all Specialty Mustangs will have their matching code appear on the Bucktag."ANN" will appear on all Anniversary models, an SVO will say "SVO", a Cobra will say "Cobra", a 1979 Pace car will say "Indy" or "Pace". All Anniversary Mustang Consecutive unit numbers start with"16", "17", or "18".
| Model | Mustang, Capri, Cougar etc... |
| Consecutive Build Order | Last 6 digits from the VIN |
| Body Style | 61B = 3dr Hatchback, CVT = Convertible |
| Engine | W = 2.3 Turbo, M = 5.0 HO, F= 5.0 (1983 and earlier) |
| Paintshop Rotation Order | Numerical order each car was painted that day. |
| Body Color Codes | Codes for the outer body colors |
| Top Color (Convertibles only) | BLK = Black, WHT= White |
| Door Frame Color | DF = Black |
| Bumpers | ST = Steel, ?? = Aluminum(1979 only), ?? =Fiberglass |
| Radio Package | PS = Premium Sound Package |
| Air Conditioner | AC = Air Conditioner equipped |
| Windows | 03 = Power Windows, 04 = Manual Windows |
| Speed Control | S = Cruise Control equipped |
| Model Style | ANN = Anniversary, GT = GT, SVO = SVO, etc... |
| Rocker Mouldings | BR = Black, ?? = body color (apparently left blank on ANNIV. models) |
| Transmission | MBW = Manual Borg Warner ?? = Auto, ?? = AOD |
| Hood Type | 03 = Hood with Scoop, 01 = Hood without Scoop, 02 = (not known at this time) |
| Ford Testing Use Only | D = ???? |
| Rear Louvers | NLR = No Louvers Rear |
Comments
2001 Cleaner, Safer, Sooner
"We want to produce vehicles that not only improve individual lives, but also the world around us. We plan on being the world's most environmentally responsible automaker."
Bill Ford, Ford Motor Company, Chairman of the BoardComments
"We have pledged to increase the fuel economy of our SUV fleet by 25 percent by 2005. It is the next logical step in our 'Cleaner, Safer, Sooner' campaign. At the same time, we will maintain their safety, performance and functionality. This is the right thing to do for our customers and our stockholders."
Jacques Nasser, Ford Motor Company, President and Chief Executive OfficerComments
CMA CORKBOARD
This is the second announcement of an entirely new area for CMA. The area will be known as the "Corkboard", and will be available to all user's and members of CMA. The area will be divided up into two logical categories known as "Club News" and "Member News" respectively.
Club News should be used for posting such items as car shows, cruise nights, road rallies, club websites, and any other events open to the public. The Members News area should be used for member announcements, such as announcing which place your car earned at a particular show, or how you fixed or repaired something. It may also be used to help others learn how to use the Classic Mustang Analyzer software, by providing or sharing a useful tip. You may want to share a fact or detail about your car and the board will allow you to post a link to your Mustang website or photo of your car. I hope this will be a very interactive, busy and positive part of CMA. You may even use this area to make comments regarding items in the newsletter, starting with this issue I'm including links where comments about articles may be appropriate.Comments
Comments
To gain some more free horsepower in third generation 5.0 liter fuel injected Mustangs, it is highly recommended to remove the factory silencer cone in the right front fender. This part alone disrupts the airflow into the engine causing it to lose horsepower. With only a screwdriver or a hand ratchet, it can be easily removed in a few minutes allowing you to recover from 3 to 5 horsepower. Optionally you can also add a K&N air filter system increasing the gain approximately 5 to 7 horsepower more. K&N systems can be purchased in local spewed shops for from $35 to about $75 depending on model and year. If you buy one, don't forget to also get the filter cleaner and oil for maintaining it. This filter is guaranteed to last 100,000 miles, so it will be the last one you buy. It needs cleaning about twice a year to maintain optimal performance.Comments
Top Menu
Although this improvement does not fall in the "free horsepower" category, to most Mustang enthusiasts it represents the single best improvement for the money. What I'm talking about is removing the stock exhaust and adding a quality low restriction system. Locate kits at your local shop made by Flowmaster, Dynomax, Mac, Eldelbrock, or Turbo Tube. All are well made with ease of installation in mind. For a long lasting job, I would recommend using a stainless steel model. They cost more, but if you have to lay on your back in the driveway or garage to do it, it's not something you want to do often. I choose to install the Dynomax 2 & 1/4" Super Turbo on my 1989 LX Sport 5.0 model hatchback. The whole job, removing the old exhaust and installing the new Dynomax units only took about 90 minutes. They also come in 2 &1/2" and 3" models, but I personally felt that they would be too loud. They sound great and the car ran terrific afterwards. I have an AOD transmission and I also noticed it seemed to shift faster and with a more positive feel.Comments
Mustang of the MonthThe feature Mustang...is a 1993 Black GT
It's a pretty well known fact by Mustang drag racers that 5.0 liter engines run better when they are cooler. The factory thermostat is set to open at 192 degrees. To cause your engine to run a richer mixture of gasoline and thus produce more power, install a 180 degree thermostat. I have seen some magazines and websites recommending 165 degree thermostats. DON'T go lower than 180 degrees or your engine performance will suffer due to the fact that proper operating temperature will not be reached. The 165 degree thermostat is fine for dragstrip racing only, but definately not for the street.Comments
If the front end of your 1979-1993 Fox bodied Mustang no longer feels tight or corners well, you can restore much of that new car feel by replacing your front end swaybar or stabilizer end links. After being used for up to twenty-two years they are worn, cracked, broken or even missing. This is an inexpensive fix and well worth the time and money. If you have a floor jack and a rachet set you can do this job yourself. You can purchase the end links at any Ford dealer or most auto parts stores for between $20 to $50 per pair. For a better feel and longer lasting job, use the links with urethane bushings.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE: Remove the front wheels and locate the stabilizer bar with it's end links just behind the brakes. Jack up the lower suspension arm a little to remove some pressure from the link. Use a rachet or vise grip type clamp to hold the top bolt or nut from spinning, while removing the lower nut, located under the lower suspension arm. (Don't block access to it with the suspension jack.) It is recommended to remove one while only loosening the other. To reassemble, install the first one and leave it loose. Remove the other side that was left loose and install that new one. Make sure that the urethane bushings are fitting properly into their respective holes and tighten, moving from side to side to keep them even. Tighten until snug, don't bottom out the thread. Lower the vehicle down and remove your jack stands and jacks. Now bounce the front end of the car a few times to seat the bushings. Now the hard part, crawl back under the car and give them a final tightning. Take the car out for a short ride, the cornering will be noticeably better. Return to your driveway or garage for one last bolt check. There, you are done! The whole job should take about two hours. One final note, if the original links are impossible to remove due to rusted nuts and bolts then cut them in the middle and remove each half from the top and bottom.Comments
